In May 2004, we spent five fascinating days on Dominica in between similarly short stays on Martinique and Guadeloupe. The island held two main attractions to us: the nature and the Carib community. Given our shared interests in Amerindian culture, we decided to centre our attention upon the Carib Territory, and take things from there. As the ferry from Martinique to Dominica was late, we missed our arranged pick-up from the harbour, and had to negotiate a taxi-fare at ten at night, to take us the considerable distance from Roseau to the Carib guesthouse at Crayfish River, on the Windward Coast. After an expensive but entertaining, ear-splitting ride, we finally arrived at our destination: the Carib Territory! However, it wasn't until the next morning that we could start to take in the various sights. The first stop had to be the church at Salybia, beautifully painted on the outside by Lennox Honychurch with a mural depicting the arrival of Columbus' fleet at Dominica in 1494.